Entropy

Relax in southern comfort on the east bank of the Mississippi. You're just around the corner from Beale Street and Sun Records. Watch the ducks, throw back a few and tell us what's on your mind.
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JR.
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Re: Entropy

Post by JR. »

mediatechnology wrote: Mon Dec 17, 2018 4:22 pm Well at least its not like the sewer line we installed during the remodel.
You would be digging in solid limestone.
We started at just about a foot depth.
The tap was at 8' 3" so we had a gradual fall over the 125 foot run and then a rapid drop in the last 4-5 feet.
I paid about $50 per foot for that 3" line to be installed.

Enjoy your DIY savings.
If I could convince myself that I was saving $50 a foot I'd feel a lot better. :lol:

I am already looking forward to getting the new pipe in and draining my back ditches a few inches lower... hopefully even 2" lower than when I first did this over a decade ago.

JR

[edit- my overnight design team came up with a new idea. Since my 4" pipe is buried more that 4" below grade, I could stack the old pipe on top of the new pipe. Ideally this would give me more capacity... now I need to figure out how to remove sediment from the decade old pipe... or not.

driveway lights were still lit at 3AM so fine so far... /edit]
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billshurv
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Re: Entropy

Post by billshurv »

The first casualty of the holiday season has been my speakers. Well the right hand one. I had to push my apogees back to fit the xmas tree in and one of the banana connectors collided with the bookcase and snapped. After 25 years metal fatigue stuck. So i now have a ring of BeCu stuck inside I have to pull out, but I can't really get at it due to tree, piano and baby pen in the way. Argh.
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JR.
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Re: Entropy

Post by JR. »

rock it mono... its only christmas music... no hurry waiting for replacement parts...

Merry Christmas
===
DSCF0069.JPG
Since I pulled the pipe out of the hole it is flowing zero water so water level in back ditch is rising, without new rain. Runoff is still coming down from up hill.
DSCF0070.JPG
I have confirmed that sediment and grade of the buried pipe is/was the problem. I could barely lift the pipe between sand and water weight still inside the pipe.

I need to get the rest of the pipe up so ditch can clear out the back ditch standing water completely.

I have no idea how to get the sand/mud out of the old pipe. I have new pipe coming so I can lay the old pipe on top of the new and not worry about it.

JR

[edit driveway lights lit at midnight, dark by 3AM /edit]
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billshurv
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Re: Entropy

Post by billshurv »

Not a fun job there. I will save you from the horror stories of the septic system here from a few years ago. The area I live in is odd as, despite only being 40 miles from the centre of london has a very high proportion of houses with no gas and no mains sewerage. The landlord likes to bodge. After 4 years of complaining and having to rod the system once a week or more he finally put a new system for me.
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JR.
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Re: Entropy

Post by JR. »

When I was a kid growing up in northern New Jersey we had septic tanks... One dramatic incident happened when somebody parked their car/truck in the wrong part of the yard and it collapsed into the septic tank. Later as civilization reached our house we connected to a proper sewer system.

For a while I was working on a house plan for a remote one acre plot outside Atlanta and that would require a septic field. I eventually abandoned that project and sold the land (it would have been a kick ass house... too cool for me).

I now live on low (wet) ground so a septic system would be challenged, but I also live in downtown (cough) Hickory, MS, so have a sewer tie in. About 20 years ago the cheesy (cardboard?) sewer line from my house to the city line collapsed so we replaced it with PVC.. still works. :lol:

=====
DSCF0071.JPG
Looks a little like a south american gold mining operation (sluice channels). It was hard to lift the pipe up that high at first because it was full of silt and water, so pretty heavy... now the top 10-15' is empty and light. This is completely impractical to clear the entire pipe this way but my inner nerd wanted to see what would happen with more elevation.
DSCF0072.JPG
Down in the front ditch where the drain pipe outlet is you can see the milky silt in suspension in the water coming out (flowing to the left). The clear water to the right is coming down my front ditch.

Over a week before the new pipe arrives. I still need to ask the volunteer fire department (almost next door), if they want to have some fun flushing out my clogged drain pipes with high pressure water hoses. :lol:

JR
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billshurv
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Re: Entropy

Post by billshurv »

See I would go all Red Green at this point and attach an airline to see what that could shift, whilst conveniently ignoring that air, being a compressible fluid is the gift that keeps giving when things go wrong :)
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JR.
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Re: Entropy

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billshurv wrote: Wed Dec 19, 2018 5:54 pm See I would go all Red Green at this point and attach an airline to see what that could shift, whilst conveniently ignoring that air, being a compressible fluid is the gift that keeps giving when things go wrong :)
I can't say that I understand. The old flex pipe has slits in it so is not air tight (as evidenced by the water dripping out)... presumably this was a feature to move water into/out of soil... but you cannot pressurize the pipe.

My rube goldberg ladder-yadda... almost works but not well enough. I already ordered a second course of new pipe, so I will replace 1x4"x100'+ pipe, with 2x4"x100'+ pipe... that will fit in the same existing ditch... (ditch is pretty deep).

Rained today, so muddy mess tomorrow, with no drain pipe in the hole to remove water. I may have to put the old pipe back in the hole tomorrow. :lol:

JR

PS: The second order of pipe is scheduled to arrive at the same time as the first....surprising or not really.
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billshurv
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Re: Entropy

Post by billshurv »

Ah didn't realise it was unsealed. High pressure air jets will shift mud very well and used instead of water pressure washers in some areas. But in this case was thinking more the redneck solution to the problem. Clearly rodding is out as you might push the rod through the wall of the pipe?

A vibrating poker might also liquify things enough to flow them out. Got any mil spec subwoofers lying around?
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JR.
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Re: Entropy

Post by JR. »

billshurv wrote: Thu Dec 20, 2018 4:45 am Ah didn't realise it was unsealed. High pressure air jets will shift mud very well and used instead of water pressure washers in some areas. But in this case was thinking more the redneck solution to the problem. Clearly rodding is out as you might push the rod through the wall of the pipe?

A vibrating poker might also liquify things enough to flow them out. Got any mil spec subwoofers lying around?
New pipe cost less than $1/foot so replacement pipe was already on order.... seeing how deep my trench is below grade encouraged me to buy another course of pipe, so I will replace one clogged 4" pipe with 2x4" new clean and clear pipe, over-under.

I was able to clear the top 15" or so of the old pipe by elevating it with a ladder and flowing my garden hose into it... but... that is not practical for 100'+ of pipe. :oops:

It rained less than 1" last night and this morning I have more new standing water in the back ditch. I dragged the still mostly blocked pipe back down into the trench and water started flowing through it again... along with more loose silt coming out... not full flow, but even slow drainage is better than no drainage until the new pipe arrives.

JR

PS: The back rain ditch system has an exit pipe in the far back corner but it does not pull down as low as my front culvert, thus my buried pipe draining water from the back system to the front. Over a decade ago (after hurricane Katrina) I added the swale connecting my back to front to carry rain overflow. I buried the pipe underneath this swale.

Pictures from a previous storm, not today.
runoff.png
Front - You can barely see the top of the 3' diameter culvert where the big rain flow ends up...
rain.jpg
Back- where rain run-off is coming from (after very heavy rainfall). Before I cut that swale in my yard, the water would sit in the back system for a week or more after a storm.

[edit- first 100' of pipe arrived today (one week early). I know what I'm doing this weekend. :lol: /edit]
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mediatechnology
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Equipotential Kitchen Faucet

Post by mediatechnology »

mediatechnology wrote: Sun Feb 04, 2018 2:02 pm The Accutronics reverb springs sort of fell into place. The top ring is coupled to the bottom one by a section of spring behind the turret.

This ties all four sections together bringing them to equal potential. The top spring rides on the ball always seeking the smallest-available diameter.

The bottom spring rides on the groove. The faucet can be turned and operated normally and the springs ride along.

Image

I now measure 0 mV between the bottom 3 sections. The top sometimes shows 1-2 mV from the base which could be improved by cleaning the bottom ridge of the handle.

The studs underneath are grounded by a clip lead but the base floats from that. The bottom gasket insulates the base from everything below it.

There is about 300 nA DC current from the faucet to earth ground.
What needs to happen is to loosen the whole faucet, slip a small drain strap underneath it and then tighten the whole thing down.
Ground that to third wire at the disposal.

We break new ground here at the Pro Audio Design Forum. :lol:

EDIT: Forgot to mention the most trippy part: When water is not flowing the faucet is negative with respect to earth ground. When the water is turned on, the polarity reverses. No, this is not April Fools.
I think I have some proof this is working.
To begin with I haven't seen or felt any pitting in the sink arm or seen calcium build-up in the joints between sections.

While cleaning I noticed that the tiny brass coupler between Accutronics spring sections had almost disintegrated.
The springs are stainless steel.
The brass coupling ring is at the top two sections where the adjustable handle arm meets the fixed ball.
The brass ring is needed when the spring is used in a reverb - it serves no purpose here.

Modern Accutronics springs use a tiny brass eyelet.
The old style, like this one used a tiny brass ring.
That ring had almost corroded.

It looks like the potential difference and current flow between sections is being successfully shunted by the springs enough to set up galvanic corrosion at the union of dissimilar metals in the spring itself.

With the ring gone the springs still stay hooked and are then stainless-to-stainless.
I think this provides some proof that there's been a diversion of current.

Previously the faucet was pulling metal off itself and into another section.
That doesn't appear to be happening now.

Interesting post#8 here: https://www.iccsafe.org/forum/electrica ... l-bonding/
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